Category Archives: finished object

Oceanwind’s Tweed Scarf: it’s reversible!

I found a great pattern on ravelry right before Christmas and it was just in time to make my Dad a scarf. I prefer reversible scarves that won’t roll and the combination of horizontal and vertical ribbing was perfect – click over to my new blog ( to see more details and the chart I used.


free pattern: reversible ribbed hat

Here’s a pattern for the simple ribbed hat I made my husband for Christmas. One size will fit almost any adult because the ribbing is extra stretchy and it’s easy to add stripes and make it look store bought.

yarn: Debbie Bliss merino aran, less than 2 50gram balls of the main color with a small amount of two contrasting color for the stripes
needles: size 6 (4mm) 16″ circular and 6″ double points – I used needles 2 sizes smaller than recommended since ribbing is generally worked with smaller needles
size: 20inches unstretched, stretches to fit heads up to 24 inches
gauge: 10 stitches = 1.75″ unstretched in 2×2 ribbing

body of hat:

  1. cast on 100 stitches with the main color (I used the long-tail cast on)
  2. join in the round careful not to twist the stitches, mark the beginning of the round
  3. knit in 2×2 ribbing for 8 rows
  4. switch to a different color and knit 1 entire round (this makes the color change look neater on the right side)
  5. continuing with the new color, re-establish the 2×2 ribbing and knit 3 more rounds; there should be a total of 4 rounds in the new color
  6. switch back to the main color and knit 1 entire round, then re-establish the 2×2 ribbing and knit 5 more rounds for a total of 6 rounds of the main color
  7. switch to the second contrasting color, knit 1 round, re-establish 2×2 ribbing for 3 additional rounds for a total of 4 rounds in the second stripe
  8. switch back to the main color and knit 1 round, change to 2×2 ribbing and work until hat fits comfortably on the head (about 8 inches)

crown decreases: place a marker at the beginning of the round, the first two stitches should be knits, switch to double pointed needles when necessary – between round 5 and 7

repeat stitches between * and * until the end of the round, numbered instructions are for each round:

  1. *knit 2, purl2together, knit 2, purl 2*, there should be 87 stitches at the end of the round
  2. *knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2*
  3. *knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2*
  4. *knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl2together*, there should be 75 stitches at the end of the round
  5. *knit 2, purl 1* there should still be 75 stitches per round
  6. *knit 2, purl 1* there should still be 75 stitches per round
  7. *knit 2, knit a purl and knit together, knit 1*, [50 stitches at end of round]
  8. knit entire round
  9. *knit 2 together, knit 3* [40 stitches at end of round]
  10. *knit 2, knit 2 together* [30 stitches at end of round]
  11. *knit 2 together, knit 1* [20 stitches at end of round]
  12. *knit 2 together* [10 stitches at end of round]
  13. *knit 2 together* [5 stitches remain]

(note that decreases are staggered for the crown so there won’t be any obvious decrease lines – if you like the decrease lines, just line them up!)

Cut or break the yarn leaving a tail at least 10 ” long, thread a darning needle and draw the tail through the remaining 5 stitches to secure them. Weave in ends and enjoy!

The hat was a bit itchy after extended wear (hours) so I washed it with some shampoo and conditioner – it’s much softer now. I really enjoyed working with the Debbie Bliss merino aran yarn – it worked up beautifully on smaller needles than called for and has a nice tight twist which made it easy to knit without looking. I can tell this yarn will hold up wonderfully. With the wide array of colors, this might be my new favorite worsted weight yarn!

cross posted with my new blog

fabulous fetching

Where has the time gone? I got lost in the time vortex of school and holidays. Here is the lastest addition to Christmas knitting! Fetching with half fingers:

Pattern: Fetching (but I modified it some)
Yarn: Knitpicks Merino Style (slightly more than one 50 gram ball per pair)
Needles: size 5 (3.75mm) 5″ dpns
Modifications: With the yarn change and the small hands of the recipients, I knit these with 40 stitches and I added the fingers using the instructions in Ann Budd’s pattern book. I cast off the fingers when they reached my knuckle (guessing my hands are about the same length as the recipients’ ;-).

The white mittens have a braided cable pattern that’s probably in a stitch dictionary somewhere but I fiddled it out at a knitting guild meeting (Candace Eisner Strick was talking that night – it was a special treat to sit and knit and fondle her designs – she even bicycles every morning 🙂 Wish I was dedicated enough to bike every morning. So for the braided cable mittens, I cast on 40 stitches but ribbed in a K3 P1 pattern (instead of the K4 P1 used in the Fetching pattern). Here’s the cable pattern:

round 1 *P1, K3*, repeat until end of round
round 2 *P1 C2L K1*, repeat until end of round
round 3 *P1 K1 C2R*, repeat until end of round

repeat rounds 2 and 3 until the cabling is tall enough (for the cuff, I did 5 repeats so I had 5 cables crossing left and 5 crossing right over 10 rounds)

C2L and C2R are standard abbreviations but confused me a bunch when I first saw them. The C means ‘cable’ the 2 is the number of stitches involved and the L or R means which direction the top stitch crosses the bottom stitch.
C2L means the first stitch is crossed left in front of the second stitch
C2R means the second stitch is crossed right in front of the first stitch or the first stitch is crossed left in back of the second stitch

So C4L (found in the fetching pattern as C4F) means that 4 stitches are manipulated but 2 are crossed left in front of the other 2 which cross right in back. I like to take deep breaths when I read cable patterns – I think charts are definitely the way to go when it gets more complicated.

And I’m so behind that I haven’t shown my one Thanksgiving picture. I got to spend it with my husbands’ family (sadly I forgot to get my camera out of my bag) and my family. My mom decorated the tables beautifully – here’s a picture of one of them

Until next time…school, the Tobey dog, Christmas knitting, and the dining room table project are calling

Can you see Tobey’s paws crossed over one another? I could watch him sleep all day.

I finished my Monkey socks

I finished the monkey socks, they are different sizes (even though I used the same needles, yarn, and number of stitches), and I love them both. I think I must have been extra relaxed when I knit the first one (right leg) because it is quite loose – the second one (left leg) tightened up a lot and the yarn looks completely different between the two. I was proud of myself for weaving in the ends so I didn’t bother blocking them before I put them on. Will the lace pattern look different blocked?

needles: size 0 (2mm)
yarn: knitpicks memories

I baked some cupcakes last week – can you guess what these are meant to be?

Tobey might finally be starting to trust us – he had a bit of separation anxiety when we left for work last week. Today, he happily slept on our bed with his head on the pillow. We took him to Mr T’s parents over the weekend to play with Brandy (the golden retriever). They are too cute.

Brandy likes to pull on her leash – makes it a chore to walk her so they got a gentle leader. This is the first time she wore it and she asked Tobey to help her get it off!

They fought over the toy until they passed out.

licorice twist sweater

I finished the shrug! (click on the link for some of the background of the yarn and how I got started with the pattern.) It’s more like a sweater now because it is actually long enough to reach my waist and I love it! I can’t believe how closely the finished product matches my sketches and imaginings of how I wanted it to end up. The first two drawings are ones I made during a meeting at work, the 3rd is the schematic I used to design the pattern and make the sweater.

I actually finished the sweater nearly two weeks ago, uploaded the pictures last week, and found my sketches tonight….yay for being organized – they were unexpectedly in the very bag I’d used for this project and right where I’d left them under a gigantic pile of laundry.

yarn: 1) I started with 497 grams of the licorice twist (I made up this name – I have no idea what the original colorway was called) from Briggs and Little Woolen Mills and have 192 grams left. 2) I used an entire skein of Lamb’s Pride Worsted which is 113 grams and 173 meters for the black border. Funnily enough, while I have quite a bit of the licorice twist left, I had about a yard of the black left when I cast of the ~450 stitch main border….I was weighing the skein every row to figure out how wide I’d be able to make the border.

needles: Addi Turbo size 10 (6mm) 32″ and some size 10 (6mm) 8″ dpns. It was quite interesting to make the approximately 60″ border on 32″ needles. I scrunched all the stitches together and did some cursing as I lifted the entire sweater around and around and slid the stitches down the right side and up the left side. I did acquire some cheap size 10 plastic needles about halfway through but they were also 32″ so each row, I alternated which needles I was using to make at least half the stitches easier to knit.

button: I got the button at the Fingerlakes fiber festival and it is perfect for the sweater. I made the button hole in the border by casting off 2 stitches and casting them on the next row. It stretched out a lot until I whip stitched around the hole with the same yarn to strengthen it.

Things I learned making this sweater:

1) the raglan construction doesn’t look so nice with a different color border knitted on – maybe I can make a yoke next time so it doesn’t look so square where the black border is knitted into the raglans.

2) When I think I’m going to run out of yarn and buy more, I will not actually run out of yarn.

3) The power of the scale is awesome – for the border I was using about 6 grams of yarn per plain round about about 7 per cabled round. When I had 45 grams left, I figured I could knit 6 more rows and still have enough for the bind off. It actually worked. The bind off used almost two rows worth of yarn which I will certainly keep in mind next time.

4) I never used to understand why anyone would make pieces of a garment flat, then sew them together – it seemed like an extra step and kinda confused me. When I look at a sleeve knitted flat, it doesn’t look like it will go on my arm – when I’m knitting a sleeve in the round, I can try it on as I go. When I’m knitting seamless, I have almost no ends to weave in, and fewer stitches to pick up since I also used figure 8 cast-ons everywhere. Somehow, I derive extra pleasure from not having any seams in the garment. I began to understand why someone might knit a garment flat when I was working on the sleeves – every 3 or 4 rounds, I’d have to pick the whole sweater up and untwist it. It was still nice not having to pin the sleeve in place and sew it to the shoulder wondering if I was doing it right or if I’d have to try again and again…

5) this is the worst – I’m ALLERGIC to mohair. I had no idea. It didn’t bother me when I swatched, it didn’t bother me when I was carrying the mohair around to look at it, it didn’t bother me when I knit the cuffs. It began to bother me about halfway through the border (the same time I was panicking about running out of yarn and obsessively weighing the remaining skein). I actually had to stop knitting, wash my hands, wash my face, take out my contacts, and swallow some claritin. Then I finished knitting after I took a walk. I wore it to work the next day because it was almost cold and I was excited about my new sweater. I had to take it off on 3 or 4 separate occasions because my eyes were too itchy. I’ve washed it, but I think I’m still allergic – either my eyes are itching thinking about it, or they’re itching because I moved it to make room for clean laundry a little bit ago.

I can’t quite face re-knitting the border just yet, I like it too much to give it away to someone my size with no mohair allergy, and I don’t really see the point of owning a sweater that lives unworn in my attic.

I want to destroy the 15% mohair in the border. I love the border. It’s perfect. I can’t believe I figured out the right number of stitches to pick up for each separate section of the sweater, I can’t believe I counted to 450, and I can’t believe my border lies flat on the first try. Maybe when it gets really cold, I can take a lot of claritin, avoid touching my eyes, and wear it anyway.

The shrug that morphed into a sweater was in fact a success. I’m planning to make one for my sister – she’s smaller than me so I think I can get the entire sweater and border from her 4 skeins of Briggs and Little wool.

I’ve never really written a pattern before – I take notes for myself to make something again later but that’s about it. I’m pretty sure my notes wouldn’t make sense to anyone but me and of course, they’re only in my size. However, if enough (more than 10) people are interested in a seamless sweater/shrug and leave a comment telling me so, I’d consider doing some math and writing it up for a few sizes.

happy knitting!

all finished – honeymoon socks part iii

I just found the podcast ‘stash and burn‘ and I’ve listened to the first 10 or so episodes. Listening to Nicole and Jenny is definitely motivating me to work on my own stash – especially the part I bought in the last 2 months. The yarn for these socks has been around for a year and a half and wound in balls for over a year so I’m glad I finally got it into a project!

The honeymoon socks are all finished! It was about 2 weeks including the substantial cuff and heel reknits; I was pretty lucky in that I only made 3 cuffs and 3 heels for 2 socks. I started both socks at the orange stripe so they match 🙂 I didn’t think it would be as easy as starting with the same color but the Lana Grossa stripes are very consistent. I used the afterthought Turkish Heel described in Lucy Neatby’s Warm Socks Cool Feet. To make the heels match, I made sure to set in the waste yarn for the heel in the middle of a maroon stripe (it was the right length for my foot) and then I used maroon yarn to start the heel later. I think using the same, solid color helps disguise the afterthought part of the heel and it made it tons easier to weave in ends and close up the gap in the corners of the heel.


This is my third pair of socks and the first that fits snugly. It is also the first time I finished both socks as fast as possible – I previously went 6 months or so working on first sock and a week or two working on the second. I still can’t believe I finished these in the heat of summer – I blame the stripes for always convincing me to knit a little more.

I finished these Thursday evening and it was dark so as soon as I woke up Friday morning, I went outside to take these shots. It was already 75 degrees or so when I tugged the socks on 😉 I would have loved to wear them all day but that will have to wait until fall when the leaves match the socks.


yarn: Lana Grossa Meilenweit Fantasy color 4730
needles: size 0 (2mm) bamboo dpns, 6″
gauge: 8 stitches, 12 rows per inch. my foot measures 8.5 inches. I multiplied my gauge by my foot circumference (8*8.5 = 68 stitches) but I wanted the sock to fit snugly so I subtracted about 10% of the stitches, rounded down, and made a 60 stitch sock. It fits great – I like the 10% negative ease rule of thumb. I should modify that to say the foot fits great, and I got a little carried away with making my ribbing tight. The cuff is a bit tight right above the heel (I should have ripped it out more) but I can put the socks on and I figure they’ll stretch a bit.

the details: Figure 8 cast on 24 stitches, increase at the sides (4 stitches every other round) until 60 stitches total. Knit in the round until length is 1.5 inches shorter than foot. Place waste yarn for heel stitches on 36 stitches centered in the middle of the foot. Knit the cuff in 2×2 rib from ~1″ after the heel until yarn is almost gone, finish the heels, be happy!

Sock yarn for socks and a scarf

The honeymoon socks are progressing nicely although I haven’t been knitting nearly as much since I got home and have laundry, a new dishwasher thanks to my grandparents, and full-time internet access. I might have watched a few episodes of 24 while I was at it 😉 I dug around inside the ball of remaining yarn for each sock and *think* I can do one more complete stripe repeat for each sock ankle – I have another orange stripe in each ball and I should have enough after that to finish the heel on the second sock. You can probably see in the picture below on the right that I’ve made the first heel and left it on waste yarn; this is because it doesn’t really fit. I followed the turkish heel directions in Lucy Neatby’s book but the heel is very small and I didn’t think I had overly large heels. I decided that I should make the second heel a little bigger and try it on before I start ripping things apart.

Can anyone guess what sort of plant is posing with my socks? My sister grew it from the seed of something we like to eat following directions she found on the internet.

yarn: Lana Grossa sock yarn in color 4730 that I bought in Lake Placid the first time Tom took me there (Adirondack yarns used to have a webpage that I wanted to link to but it seems to have been taken over by ‘parkers’. This yarn shop is fabulous if your significant other doesn’t love to browse fiber for hours because it’s attached to a coffeeshop with free wireless!)

needles: size 0 (2mm) bamboo needles I picked up in the same Lake Placid yarn shop 2 days before the wedding because the knitpicks 2.75mm needles gave me a whopping 6 stitches per inch and I really wanted needles for a tight gauge before my honeymoon. The 2mm needles gave me 8 stitches and 12 rows per inch so I cast on a 60 stitch sock to fit my 8 1/2 inch ankle/foot and it fits!

pattern: figure 8 cast-on, stockinette, turkish heel, 2×2 ribbing for ankle.

I finished Mr. T’s scarf just before we got married – it helped a ton with all the pre-wedding stress and I could do it while watching episodes of 24! I think I grafted the cast-off and wove in the ends sitting next to the lake with relatives 2 days before we got married.

Yarn: Knitpicks Memories in Yukon, ~2.5 balls which I got in their fabulous sale. You might wonder about the sanity of someone making a man’s scarf from fingering weight yarn but it is very soft, has alluring colors, and drapes well. It also knit up very quickly!

Needles: Size 6 (4mm) addi Turbo circulars

Dimensions: 6 3/4 inches wide and 68 inches long when unstretched – it wraps around Mr. T’s neck once, the ends hang to his waist on the same side

Pattern: Fluffbuff’s tubular cast on for 35? stitches – never wrote it down and counting doesn’t seem accurate. Then I switched to the brioche stitch which is pretty simple, less mindless than stockinette, doesn’t roll, and is reversible. The reversible of course is key for scarves and this stitch fluffs out the sock weight yarn and makes the scarf seem thicker – I’m hoping it traps more warm air around Mr. T’s neck next January.

I used what I think is the simple brioche stitch:

first row (setup): YO, slip 1 purlwise, knit 1

every row: YO, slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together (the slipped and YO of the previous row)